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poles in the ground vs concrete footings with anchor
I have a tree stand that has been in the woods with just spoils around it for more than 13 years now. Yes its 16' tall and 8x8 and has made it thru a few tornados that took out 50 acres of my 160 and many more storms w/winds in excess of 70mph. I am a firm believer in no cement around the poles. As for sand and gravel/pea or other around the poles. By me anyway that would only make the water around the pole worse for the water does not drain in the clay/rocky soil. Anything that would be like a hole with sand/gravel in it would just suck up any water and then hold it like a basin.
The new treated wood I have used is great. Here is a statement describing it.
KDAT lumber is lumber that has been kiln-dried after treatment. Pressure treatment involves impregnating wood with preservative chemicals. As it dries after treatment, lumber often shrinks, cups, and warps. But if pressure-treated lumber is dried before it’s installed, it will undergo only limited dimensional changes. KDAT lumber has been dried and “pre-shrunk” to prevent substantial shrinkage, cupping, or warping. It’s dried in a controlled environment at the treatment plant—not after it has already been built into place and become part of a structure
Also be careful which quality you buy, the cheapest is not the best and just because it says green treat does not mean it can be used under ground, or even as a ground contact. There is AC2 end use-above ground! Then a AC2 perma wood ground contact also a marine grade below surface.
A non-arsenic treated wood imho is the best for everyone around its use. Remember this
Just because it say's Green Treated does not mean it can contact the ground. Do your home work on which treated method and quality you use. The dollar more a board for the better product will go a long way in the life of your project. Also any fasteners used underground NEED to be stainless, and buy a quality stainless screw. Read up on it before you buy. here again just because it is stainless dont mean it wont rust or corrode. usually the cheaper screws (stainless) are NOT a deal. If in dought ask! If still in dought buy the spendy ones more times than not you will be buying the best.
LAST THING
Very important, keep your tags from the ENDS OF THE TREATED WOOD. ALso if you feel real ambitious take a picture of all your wood with the tags on (while in a pile) and then take a pic of your completed project with a dtaed reciept and a news paper (with the date showing on it)all in the same pic.
Keep your tags for the wood?// WHY??? because that is your warrenty in most cases. You will have to contact the company for your warrenty if you need it in a few years and you will also have to prove that is what you used and when. (IE: that is why you take picture's, it is not definate proof that is what you used but it is enough for the company NOT to fight you.
3 things to remember
1. Check your application and buy the right treated
lumber for your project.
2. Keep your tags and proof of buiding with it.
3. Wrap the outside of your ground contact lumber in areas where the ground heaves with a product that will move with the ground and not want to pull on your poles (like tar paper or styro-foam.
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